11 May 2008

For My Mama

The other day as I was ricocheting slowly
off the pale blue walls of this room,
bouncing from typewriter to piano,
from bookshelf to an envelope lying on the floor,
I found myself in the L section of the dictionary
where my eyes fell upon the word lanyard.

No cookie nibbled by a French novelist
could send one more suddenly into the past—
a past where I sat at a workbench at a camp
by a deep Adirondack lake
learning how to braid thin plastic strips
into a lanyard, a gift for my mother.

I had never seen anyone use a lanyard
or wear one, if that’s what you did with them,
but that did not keep me from crossing
strand over strand again and again
until I had made a boxy
red and white lanyard for my mother.

She gave me life and milk from her breasts,
and I gave her a lanyard.
She nursed me in many a sickroom,
lifted teaspoons of medicine to my lips,
set cold face-cloths on my forehead,
and then led me out into the airy light

and taught me to walk and swim,
and I, in turn, presented her with a lanyard.
Here are thousands of meals, she said,
and here is clothing and a good education.
And here is your lanyard, I replied,
which I made with a little help from a counselor.

Here is a breathing body and a beating heart,
strong legs, bones and teeth,
and two clear eyes to read the world, she whispered,
and here, I said, is the lanyard I made at camp.
And here, I wish to say to her now,
is a smaller gift—not the archaic truth

that you can never repay your mother,
but the rueful admission that when she took
the two-tone lanyard from my hands,
I was as sure as a boy could be
that this useless, worthless thing I wove
out of boredom would be enough to make us even.

—"The Lanyard" by Billy Collins



09 May 2008

Dog Song

I'm just a walkin' my dog
Singin' my song
Strollin' along
Yeah it's just me and my dog
Catchin' some sun
We can't go wrong

My life was lonely and blue
Yeah I was sad as a sailor
I was an angry 'un too
Then there was you
Appeared, when I was entangled
With youth, and fear, and nerves
Jingle jangle
Vermouth and beer
Were gettin' me mangled up

But then I looked in your eyes
And I was no more a failure
You looked so wacky and wise
And I said, lord I'm happy
'cause I'm just a walkin' my dog
Singin' my song
Strollin' along
It's just me and my dog
Catchin' some sun
We can't go wrong
'cause I don't care 'bout your hatin' and your doubt
And I don't care what the politicians spout
If you wanna companion
Well just go right to the pound
And find yourself a hound
And make that doggie proud
'cause that's what it's all about

My life was tragic and sad
Yeah I was the archetypal loser
I was a pageant gone bad
Then there was you on time
And wagging your tail
In the cutest mime
And you was in jail
I said woof, be mine
And you gave a wail
And then I was no longer alone
And I was no more a boozer
We'll make the happiest home
And I said lord I'm happy
'cause I'm just a walkin' my dog
Singin' my song
Strollin' along
It's just me and my dog
Catchin' some sun
We can't go wrong
'cause I don't care 'bout your hatin' and your doubt
And I don't care what the politicians spout
If you need a companion
Well just go right to the pound
And find yourself a hound
And make that doggie proud
'cause that's what it's all about
That's what it's all about
That's what it's all abow-wow-wow-wout
That's what it's all about

06 May 2008

PK, Part II: Trier and Some Luxembourg

Two weekends ago, I traveled sans Ceej to Trier, a German city with roots in the Roman Empire. It was a wonderful weekend, with great weather and a surprisingly relaxed itinerary, for a Madame Delsemme trip.

We first stopped in Luxembourg to see the cemetery and memorial of the 5,076 American soldiers killed in the Grand Duchy during WWII, most during the Battle of the Bulge.



I have seen many memorials. This was by far the most humbling, and I have never felt so grateful.




Just 1.5 km away was the German counterpart, where 10,913 soldiers lay at rest. There was a real contrast between the two cemeteries. The German one was evidently built with much weaker (post-war) funding, and stars of David were nowhere to be found. The cross was the German cemetery's unabashed centerpiece; at the American cemetery, it was the flag.



Boo, I have an 8.30 class tomorrow. This post is to be continued…

EDIT!

Remind me never to take a class that early again. I'm glad today was the last one.

Anyway. Once in Trier, we explored the city's Roman ruins. We saw an amphitheater that used to host gladiator games and beast battling (double alliteration!). Today, they hold concerts, operas, and reenactments there, resulting in an ugly half-assembled stage and scaffolding marring the incredible view. Nonetheless, it was a very cool place with fab acoustics. Madame Delsemme whispered to us from the middle of the arena while we sat in the stands, and we could hear every word.

We also popped over to the baths, where we learned about Roman hair removal. After that was the Porta Nigra, a city gate built around 200 AD. Check the wiki page for some good pictures of its outside, since I only took pictures from the inside (whoops)…




My most lasting memory from Trier's Roman relics, though, will be of this winged phallus windchime. For a more explicit photo, check out the album!



In addition to a Roman history, what makes Trier special is its wine industry. The town is surrounded by vineyards, with grapes planted on steep hills dotted with dandelions. This provides for bodacious scenery.




A delicious wine tasting was the perfect way to end our last trip together. We learned all the necessary steps: check the color in the sunlight, swirl and sniff, slurp, and sip!




Between wines, we cleansed our palates with good German bread. (That's the charming Delsemme herself, wearing pink.)



Trier was an enchanting, colorful little city. I wouldn't be surprised if I traveled back there one day. After all, I never did get to ride the tourist train!

Playing Ketchup, Part I: Barcelona

Well, this splendid semester in Brussels is very quickly approaching its end, and I am scrambling to do many things: savor my time with Exki, visit the Atomium, write a bunch of term papers, and just kinda soak it all in. And of course, I want to finish documenting our adventures. So let me begin what will hopefully be a series of abbreviated posts covering all the things I neglected to tell you about before. If you nag him enough, maybe Ceej will join in too.

First of all, it doesn't feel worthwhile to write about Paris when my lovely (vegetarian) friend Lauren has already done a superb job of it. Check out her spring break post and then wander around the rest of her blog. It's an excellent read.

Okay, so, after Paris was of course Germany, which Ceej has already written a bit about. We spent the last weekend of spring break in Barcelona, where we met up with Emily Rose Insetta! It felt good to see a PSU friend. Em's been enjoying herself in Sevilla, Spain this semester, and her Spanish is fabulous. I was a little jealous, but mostly just proud of her.



With my stomach just recently back in working order, I was ready to eat all the delicious food that Barcelona had to offer. We spent about 60% of our visit at La Boqueria, a lively market bursting with candies, fruit, veggies, and fresh juices. There were gross things like fish and other dead animals, but we avoided that section.





Another tasty concoction not to be missed in Spain is sangria. Every place we saw served it in these terra cotta pitchers, which looked nice and rustic but didn't pour very well. Our tablecloth had many pink spots.



When we weren't eating or drinking, we were hopping from one Gaudi sight to another. Wikipedia could provide you with more substantial information, but for brevity's sake, let me just say that he is the architect version of Dr. Seuss.

First we saw the Sagrada Familia, the drip castle of a cathedral that Gaudi designed but never saw finished. (He was fatally "knocked over" by a tram, as the poorly translated museum sign told us.) In fact, it's still being built, and is now the most visited construction site in the world.



You know it's a good church when there are sea turtles involved.

Next, we climbed a mountain of steps to the Park Güell. After wandering around for a half hour or so, we finally stumbled upon our destination: a massive, tile mosaicked park bench.



Tile mosaics were Gaudi's thing, and he was cementing together broken teacups decades before HGTV was even eating solid foods. My favorite was this little building at the lower entrance to the park. The clothing on the line is a funny reminder of the fact that real people actually live right next to this fantasy world.



I'll end this post with a charming picture of Ceej devouring his booty from La Boqueria. In the background is one of the bug-infested beds! If only we had known. (Speaking of that, I am happy to report that I have been biteless since the exterminator's visit two weeks ago. Phew.)



p.s. With enough encouragement, Ceej might finish his post entitled "How to Bring Down a Small Crime Ring." It tells the enthralling story of our afternoon on a Barcelona bus with a band of pickpockets!

p.p.s. See many, many more Barcelona pictures in my album. The link is in our handy album box on the right.

p.p.p.s. (Now this is just getting obnoxious.) Muchos gracias to Emily Rose for the pictures I borrowed (without asking) from her album.

19 April 2008

Hey, That's Not a Real Post!

Here's a quick sidenote. Have you noticed the new elements that I added to our page? There's a box with links to our photo albums, so you don't have to navigate through the posts to find them. You can also chuckle at the temperatures we're still shivering through while you Pennsylvanians don your flip-flops and tank tops. Lastly, keep track of our approaching return home with the handy countdown box. (For some of you redheaded sisters out there, it's the ever-shrinking time you have left with items "borrowed" from my wardrobe.)

Questions, comments, concerns, discussion items?

We interrupt this blog to bring you a very important… RANT.

This semester, for me, could go by any number of names. I'm just brainstorming, but here are a few ideas:

The Semester When Allie Learned to Clean Her Own Toilet
The Semester When Allie's Boyfriend Enjoyed Quiche, Tiepins, and Ballet
The Semester When Allie Ate As Many Pastries As Vegetables
The Semester When Allie Fell in Love With Amsterdam
The Semester When Allie Learned That Red Wine Gives Her Asian Flush

There are others, but let's not be excessive. I'll give you just one more:

The Semester When Allie Experienced Many Annoying Things

So, you already knew about the mouse. Which later became mice, when I caught one in the kitchen nibbling on a granola bar. But so as not to seem unappreciative, I've avoided telling you about a couple other things. Well, that sure backfired. Now it's all built up and I have to write a whole post of whining.

Let's make a numbered list.

1. The mice
2. A leak in my roof
3. A few perpetually broken lights
4. Food poisoning: round one
5. An outer ear infection, treated by a Dutch-speaking doctor
6. Food poisoning: round two
7. A canceled flight back from Barcelona, rerouted to Paris 5 hours later, ending with a $120 train ride back to Brussels
8. Recently, no heat in my apartment
9. And the real kicker… BEDBUGS

That's right, you heard it. Bedbugs are real, and they live in my room. When the sun goes down, the little rice-sized pests crawl out from the cracks in my wood floor and find their dinner. On me. I wake up with tiny bites forming trails along my shoulders, hands, and lower back.

Needless to say, I haven't been handling this latest problem calmly. On Thursday, I dragged Ceej back to my apartment after class to help with my makeshift debugging strategy. We vacuumed for hours. We sprayed an entire can of insecticide on my bed, floors, and baseboards. After that, we hauled my blankets, sheets, rug, and pajamas to the laundromat for an extremely hot washing. This turned my white sheets pink. It's almost like my papa's here.

I ended my de-pest-fest around 8 last night, ate dinner, and went to my computer to start writing a politics paper that's due on Monday. Before a single paragraph was written, two bedbugs crawled across my desk.

That was the breaking point. I cried, a lot. I called home and cried some more. I didn't want to be a grown up anymore.

Very little progress was made on my paper, and by 2 a.m. I knew that I wouldn't be able to go on the planned trip to Alsace this weekend. I sent Ceej an apologetic email, hoping that he would have enough fun with the rest of the CIEE group to not resent my abandoning him.

Today was a little better. I realized that if I wait until 5 a.m. to go to sleep, I only have to suffer through an hour or so of the bedbuggy darkness. When the sun comes up, they go back in hiding, and I can sleep peacefully for a few hours.

It's obviously a temporary solution. My European roommates have been incredibly helpful in calling our landlord and nagging him to hire an exterminator. I think that they have also sensed my need to get out of the house and toss back a few. Sonja invited me to go to a bar in our neighborhood with her and a semi-American friend.

We started with kir, my favorite, because it's so irresistible. But after that, we ordered a half bottle of white wine from Alsace. If I had to stay home to battle my bedbugs, I would at least be with Ceejay in spirit(s)*.





*I feel the need to admit that this post was born entirely of my wish to publish this really, really awful pun.

17 April 2008

Mishmash of posts

I know, I know. Not enough posts. It's not like I haven't been trying. There are several drafts of posts which I have started and abandoned. But I'll try to bang out one really long one (edit: that didn't happen). Here goes...

The How to Patronize the Arts post was where I planned to describe all the artistic things that we had seen. Now there are too many things to go into great detail, but I saw:

STOMP in Antwerp with Gino and his doctor and doctor's husband. We drove there, and it was quickly apparent that no one really knew where the theater was. Evidently they thought the theater would be big and obvious enough that if we just drove around Antwerp for a while we'd stumble upon it. Too bad we left really late and just barely made it there on time.

The great thing about STOMP was that no one in the audience has to speak or understand any certain language. A great deal of the humor was slapstick. The Flemings, the Wallons, and even the Americans in the theater could all chuckle when the member of the group designated to take the physical abuse got smacked in the head with a pipe.

After STOMP, we went for drink in a gaudy golden mall. A floating champagne bar in a gaudy golden mall, to be more precise. Now, Antwerp is quite well known for its fashion. I dressed to impress (or so I thought). Maybe the fact that a single glass of champagne cost 16 euros ($25) should have tipped me off. Let's just say I felt poor. But the champagne and passion fruit chocolate dessert were comforting.




I am so bad at getting these posts finished. My goal should be to write two short paragraphs and just post what I have—to follow up on things when the mood strikes.

My experience here has introduced me to new art forms that I never expected to enjoy. To fill you in on it all would take a sit-down, so I’ll focus on the big surprise. BALLET. It’s the macho man’s worst nightmare: a bunch of tall stick-figure women prancing around to classical music, occasionally jumping into the buff arms of prop-like men. All cinematic references to ballet that I can recall involve guys falling asleep due to boredom. I can tell you that last Sunday, this was certainly not the case for me.

Bejart is a famous ballet choreographer, one that Gino worked under for a time when he was younger. He revolutionized the scene in many ways. The prop-like man mentality that I mentioned really got to him. Whereas most people thought of men as too bulky or powerful to perform elegant dance, Bejart felt that men could dance the same moves with a different spin (no poor pun intended). Therefore he turned famous work completely on its head by reversing the gender roles. The ballet I attended with Gino, Peter (his doctor), and Peter’s husband was a marvelous example of Bejart’s work.

The dancers were gorgeous, and their bodies did incredible things. I found myself wondering how many years of training it took for them to achieve such a level of perfection. Each dance had a story to tell, ones which I found more satisfying to interpret myself as opposed to watching a play and having the characters express themselves aloud. The non-verbal communication through music and dance was tiring because my eyes wanted to catch every detail, every piece of the puzzle. It made me almost sleepy by intermission but, I think, for quite different reasons than my ballet going counterparts from TV and movies.

What surprised me most was how modern the dance often was. One character/dancer sometimes played the part of conducting the music. He was dressed in a suit, with no shirt, shoes, or (from what I could tell) underwear. Just pants and a jacket. His long hair bobbed around in a funny way because of the long uneven strides he took across the stage.

Also, the end piece was borderline pornographic. Ok, that is an exaggeration. But it was very clear that the main couple were air humping each other. Especially when the other couples watched, and subsequently mimicked their moves. Oh and the male laid on top of the female for half of the dance (no humping at that point).

Afterwards, Gino explained that when the dance was first done it was quite scandalous. The critics and Paris wrote that Bejart could have kept that in his bedroom where it belonged. He also explained the departure from traditional gender roles. For dinner, Peter took us to a nice hotel restaurant where I drank some kir as we waited for it to be 16:30 (when they start serving dinner). The asparagus and goat cheese dish was delicous.

We spoke mostly German, since my German is better than Peter’s husbands English. They told me about the trip they are taking to America this summer, and were excited to learn that I’ll be in DC when they visit. Gino later told me he’s jealous they get to visit me and he doesn’t. Peter is really taking advantage of the dollar to euro conversion rate. Gino should follow suit, I think.

Anyway we just had a dinner party, I’ll get online to post this now.

11 April 2008

The Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium

We visited this massive museum on one of our first Saturdays in Brussels. It's comprised of two parts, the Museum of Ancient Art and the Museum of Modern Art, housed in a sumptuous building with 9ish floors. It's also right next to the chocolate square (Place du Grand Sablon), le Parc de Bruxelles, and a number of other museums, making it a truly Brussels-ey area.

Most of the old stuff doesn't do too much for me, but I do really love Hieronymus Bosch. He painted during the 15th and 16th centuries and is famous for his complex and bizarre depictions of demons, magical-looking creatures, and fantasy worlds. (A sort of Dante-esque hell.) Somehow, this is all supposed to make the viewer fearful of his own evil tendencies. I just think I'd like to have some of the animals as pets.

One other interesting painting from the same era is Landscape with the Fall of Icarus, by Pieter Bruegel the Elder. Icarus of course is the character from Greek mythology who got a little too flight-happy, disobeyed his father, and let his homemade wings melt in the sun. First check out the painting, then read this fantastic little poem by William Carlos Williams (one of my favorites):
According to Brueghel
when Icarus fell
it was spring

a farmer was ploughing
his field
the whole pageantry

of the year was
awake tingling
near

the edge of the sea
concerned
with itself

sweating in the sun
that melted
the wings' wax

unsignificantly
off the coast
there was

a splash quite unnoticed
this was
Icarus drowning


(W.H. Auden has a somewhat different take on this painting in his poem "Musée des Beaux Arts.")

Oh wait! One more. Jacques-Louis David's The Death of Marat is the city's pride and joy. It was painted in Paris in 1793 during the Reign of Terror, the months of the French Revolution when the guillotine was busiest. It shows the liberal propagandist Marat murdered by Charlotte Corday, a moderate from Normandy who afterward ran through the streets waving her bloody weapon for all to see. Marat had a skin condition (possibly a symptom of celiac disease) that kept him lingering in the tub for hours every day, quite vulnerable to sneaky Corday. The painter, David, was chummy with Marat, and banged out this painting four months after the murder as a memorial and a political statement. But David was also chummy with Robespierre, a leader of the French Revolution who fell out of public favor when he began decapitating folks too ruthlessly. Robespierre was sent to the guillotine in 1794, and by that time David had already peaced out to Brussels, hoping to keep his tête intact. He took this painting with him, and after his death it was donated to the city.

Okay, so, on y va! Onto the modern stuff. During the 19th century, Belgian and Dutch artists dabbled in all sorts of movements, including realism, naturalism, impressionism, pointillism, post-impressionism, and symbolism. I don't feel like writing about those.

I'm more into the 20th century stuff, from surrealist painters like René Magritte and Salvador Dali. Brussels is home to The Empire of Lights, Magritte's tricky painting that makes you think hmm, something's fishy here.

Okay, well, I wanted to give you more to read today, but I'm all tuckered out and I've only covered one museum! So check back soon for my thoughts on:

The Groeninge Museum
The Van Gogh Museum
The Rijksmuseum
The Mauritshuis
Le Louvre
Le Musée d'Orsay

09 April 2008

Amsterdam, Part II: Flowers, Art, and Other Pretty Things

Geez. This is no way to run a blog. Okay, so we went to Paris, where I made Ceej tote around my laptop all day for five days just hoping to find WiFi (French pronunciation: weefee) so that I could update. Well, no such luck. It was out of order at both places we tried! Then, of course, I got some sort of food poisoning (we'll blame it on the European restaurants' questionable hygiene practices), which stuck around for six lovely days. It was at its worst throughout our entire visit with Sandra, Tobias, and baby Anton in Germany. I can't say that I made the best first impression on them.

Since then, we've popped over to Barcelona for a weekend and started what will be a really annoying and exhausting month of school. (We have a bunch of papers due at the end of April, then a little chill time before our finals in mid-May.) But that's good news for you, since looming assignments call for procrastination at its best. That includes cooking extravagant and time-consuming dinners, keeping my room immaculate, and catching up on my blogging.

Alright, so, back to Amsterdam. What I love about this city is the same thing that I enjoyed so much when I visited New Orleans: art is everywhere. It is constantly evolving and growing in a community full of people who appreciate beauty and creativity in their everyday routines. As you already know, the Dutch get crafty with their bikes, making them visually appealing as well as practical. But they keep plenty of other pretty things around them as well.

First of all, they dig their fresh flowers. (HA! Get it?) This goes back hundreds of years. In the fifteenth century or so, they started importing tulips from Turkey, with prices for the rarest varieties climbing so high that there was eventually a devastating crash in the market. (Tulips in floral still lifes forever after symbolized the dangers of greed and speculation.) Well, they've got that all under control now, and Amsterdam is home to massive flower markets where you can buy all sorts of bulbs and blooms.



Flowers also pop up in most of the local art, like in the gold-leafed print I bought from this handsome lad…



And in much of the artwork in this itsy-bitsy gallery near the Anne Frank House. I spent lots of money here.



Another good place to see artlife is at the Dam Square, Amsterdam's equivalent of the Grand Place. People create elaborate costumes from all kinds of mixed media and then collect euros from tourists who want to photograph them. Well, Lucy and I shelled out plenty of coins at the Dam Square. We were especially excited to find a few artists just getting ready for the day. (See way more pictures of this and the rest of Amsterdam in my album.)








This is how you know that Amsterdam must have artistic skills running through its tap water: even the ugly stuff is pretty. Everywhere we turned, fantastic graffiti covered the walls.




Actually, I think it is very possible that the Dutch are naturally super artistic. The area of the Netherlands and northern Belgium was one of the two centers of European art for centuries (with the other being Italy). Some schools you may have heard of are the Flemish Primitives and the Dutch Masters… not to mention the Surrealists, the Art Nouveau movement, and the Amsterdam School of Architecture. Wowza.

We've had the chance to see an incredible amount of this art in museums around the Netherlands and Belgium. But it's nearly midnight here, and I'm hoping to drag myself out for a run tomorrow morning, so I'll stop for now. If you're very lucky, I'll write to you tomorrow about the museums we've seen. Cross your fingers, and bonne nuit!

28 March 2008

Deutschland

Wir sind jetzt in Deutschland. We're in Germany now. Unfortunately, Allie is sick with food poisoning (we think). She's been trying to get as much rest as possible in order to feel better. Hopefully everything will be right as rain tomorrow.

Speaking of rain, it's been doing that a lot lately. AND IT SNOWS! It snowed last week in Brussels, a little bit when we were in Paris, and there was a bit on the ground as we traveled through Germany yesterday. (German kezboards switch the y and z)

I won't bother trying to catch up on all that's been going on lately (only to write a whole post about bikes). Let me describe the goings-on in Germany...

Sandra met us at the train station, although I definitely didn't recognize her at first. Her hair is much shorter than mine now (like it was when she lived in Barcelona). Anton and Tobi were waiting for us at the apartment when we arrived here.

Anton ist gross! That means big, not disgusting. At 10 months of age, he crawls around the apartment exploring everything like a little detective. Apparently he prefers females, something undoubtedly learned from his father. Part of his detective work included a thorough search of Allie's chest, which continued even after I assured him there was no milk to be had there. With the support of a chair or table, he can stand on his little feet. Vacuum cleaners fascinate him.




A couple days have past since I started this post. Now I’m on the metro back in Brussels heading back to my apartment. On the tram a few moments ago a little girl was incessantly whining because she couldn’t beat a level of the game "Madagascar" for her Nintendo DS. She and her grandfather were speaking a jumble of English, German, and Russian. At one point she almost started crying, and he asked her how old she was, and did she really want everyone in the tram to think she was a big baby. Then the man took the DS, saying he was going to sell it to this guy (me). I offered twenty euros for it. “No!” she yelled. I left as grandpa was unsuccessfully attempting to beat the level for her.

Anywho back to the Germany things. Unfortunately Allie got food poisoning and was unable to do much beyond lie in bed and eat rice cakes for the duration of our stay. Saturday she was able to accompany me to the market, and Sunday she made it to Sandra and Tobi’s garden for a few hours. It seems like the hardest part of being sick for her was that she could not eat any of the tasty foods Muenster had to offer. (She did get to taste a dessert that we brought back on the train to Brussels, in spite of the fact that she was paranoid it had spoiled along the way and she would get sick again.)

The things that Allie missed out on were pretty fun. DJ Tobi was in the house at fyal (fuck you art lovers, a Muenster café). His set was mostly techno and house, with a little more pop/mainstream towards the end of the night to appease the barman.

Earlier that day there was plenty of work to be done in their garden. Sandra and Tobi rented a van to haul away trash. A couple from baby birthing class came along to help. I was on Anton duty. We had a small barbecue after the various jobs were taken care of.

The garden plots are owned by the city, and rented. Each plot has a tiny house just big enough to store equipment and hold keggers. There's a community of them, these garden plots. Almost a development of gardens. And in any development, you invariably are forced to put up with some interesting neighbors.

The garden nazi. Tobias gave him the moniker, although I suppose Jerry Seinfeld and I should share the credit. The first time I met Tobi last year, Sandra and I had been watching episodes of Seinfeld nonstop. We explained the episode The Soup Nazi to him. He wanted to know what kind of nazi he was. Based on Tobi's contempt for H&M clothing and any music not techno, he became the Music and Fashion Nazi.

In the year since I left, the nazi nomenclature was still in full force. The garden neighbor was upset because the husband friend from baby birthing class moved a bike from the path so that the van could pass. And besides that, when this man wanted to bring a car into the community (for similar reasons) 5 years ago, his request was denied. Garden Nazi yelled all of this while shaking his garden nazi fist in the air. Allie slept in the apartment :(

21 March 2008

Amsterdam, Part I: Bikes

Well! I certainly have been slacking. I have a lot of work ahead of me to catch you up on places I've visited in the past few weeks: Amsterdam (twice), Luxembourg, The Hague, and Delft. Plus a couple stories from around Brussels during my lovely red-haired counterpart's visit.

To keep things interesting and to help out the visual learners out there, I'll organize my posts around the pictures I have. I accumulated a nice little collection of bicycle pictures while in Amsterdam, so let's start with that.



The Dutch love their bicycles. According to Wikipedia (but without a source cited, so it could be a lie), there are around 700,000 of them in Amsterdam. The city government encourages the bike culture by creating bike paths everywhere and charging high prices for parking cars. There is also a gigantic bike parking garage next to the central train station, so that people can take the train into the city, pick up their wheels, and ride to work.



Perhaps to make picking their own bikes out of a crowd a little easier, people do a lot of customizing. Sometimes it's practical: big wooden wagons attached to the front or back for hauling around groceries, dogs, and miscellany; up to three child seats for picking up the kiddies from Sue's house; little baskets for transporting tulips; and of course a bell or horn for frightening the tourists. Other times, though, it's just pretty: artificial flowers woven through the frame, hand-painted designs or just a good coat of spray paint, and streamers, beads, or other girly embellishments.



Amsterdam has more than 1200 bridges over its oodles of little and big canals, and they are prime bike-parking spots. I'm not sure I can think of anything more charming than this.



As if they weren't already environmentally friendly enough, people in Amsterdam also find uses for dilapidated old bikes past their cycling life. Often times they hold signs for little boutiques, markets, and galleries.



My favorite reincarnated bike, though, was a planter outside someone's house. Note the litterbox full of daffodils: the "Kitty WC."



All of this leads quite nicely into my next post, which I'll try to write from Paris tomorrow: Amsterdam, Part II: Flowers, Art, and Other Pretty Things.

(For more bike pictures, check out my album.)

15 March 2008

How to Patronize the Arts

I know, I know. It's been a while. But we've been busy. Amsterdam, midterms, Lucy, Luxembourg...

Next week is sure to be eventful as well. On Tuesday we'll be at the theater for a production of Robespierre, a play that Allie's French class read. Wednesday I'm going to a football match between Anderlecht and Beker-Coupe and Thursday we're going to The Hague, Netherlands with our program.

The title of this post refers to all the artisticness surrounding the Amsterdam trip and my day trip to Antwerp with Gino. Soon I'll write about that, but first let me try to make up for the recent lack of posts by taking you on a little photo tour of my area.


Gino with one of his first "sons" and the son's family.


Sitting room at Christmas (just before I arrived).


The famous dining room table where we eat every night. Decorated in this picture during Christmas.


This is my metro stop. They just filled the fountainage with water. It makes me happy because it is pretty and also because that means it should be warming up a bit.


Spitting animals. This is also the church famous because there is a designated place to pee on the side of it, which is really convenient for all the drunks and bar hoppers. One place that you don't have to pay ,30 euro cents to pee. No picture of that for obvious reasons.



View of St. Catherine and fountainage right when you exit the metro.


Saint Catherine is dirty.


Here's where we can stop on the walk home if you'd like to join me for champagne and caviar at Mer du Nord's outdoor bar.




My street boasts many restaurants that make me wish the dollar didn't drastically dwindle dinner druthers. The orange sign stage right is for the Thai resto where Allie and I ate during our first visit to the area.


Here is the view you would see if you ate sting ray with Gino and me one night. FLU POWER FLU is a work of modern art commisioned by the beurs theater. The piece was the subject of a 15 minute Gino rant on how history repeats itself, etc. As you might expect, the sign is always lit. Translation: FLOW POWER FLOW.



This one needs some explanation. This view is funnier at night when both places are more busy. On the right, you'll see people slurping up and wolfing down McDonald's (aka Macdo). To the left, the business crowd lounges in the Marriott hotel, sipping cocktails and congratulating themselves on how wonderful they are. (See me in the window?)



The stock exchange (Bourse). Gino works at a building in this square.



Different view of Bourse.



Splurge on the room and skimp on the board.




I'd take you this direction if you wanted to see a movie. Can you make out the Coca Cola sign in the middle of the picture? It's pretty big in person.



Fritland is a cure-all for drunchies and munchies. They have frites and (if you're more hungy) sandwiches with frites piled on top. Mmmm.



Yes, please.


I was stupidly heteronormative and didn't even realize this is a gay bar.


That Homo sapien invaded my picture, seemingly to complete the evolution of man.



Here's the big thing set up in the Grand Place where Gino's royal society will put on costumes to pretend they are their ancestors. It is going to be on TV. Hopefully someone YouTubes it and I'll postya the link.



Royal people in the Grand Place




I caught them waving flags around, but not in costume.